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Southern Philippines

Holiday Ideas & Foreign Travel
TaurusTheBull
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Southern Philippines

#163565

Postby TaurusTheBull » September 1st, 2018, 1:52 pm

Hi,

"Go outside and take a cab, Sir".

A polite suggestion, if not the most helpful, given that I'd just asked the lady at the information desk at Davao Airport where I could get a jeepney into the city.

Airports are airports: it's maybe unfair to expect staff to think outside their pigeon-holed views of passengers. It's a bit like TripAdvisor. When someone asks an online question about budget travel, replies invariably ignore the question and generally follow a trend of "you should pay more because it's more comfortable".

Walking to the main road, I asked in which direction lay Davao City, and caught the next Catitipan jeepney (route painted on the side). Thirty minutes, and 12 pesos (18p) later, I disembarked at Gaisano Mall and changed to an 8-peso jeepney going past General Luna Street. Find out the jeepney fare beforehand, or expect to be short-changed.

I stayed at Davao Hub Dormitel B&B, in a four-bed aircon dorm, with basic breakfast, filtered water and WiFi, for 375 pesos per night, about £6. Davao is cheap, off the tourist circuit (receiving about a tenth of the foreigners that visit Cebu), and rooms can be found as low as 160 pesos.

My accommodation was good and the female staff very helpful, lending me an umbrella, a two-pin adaptor, and giving me advice on navigating downtown Davao.

The local branch of BBQ Boss, serving ice-cold half-litre bottles of "extra strong" Red Horse beer at fifty pesos, was two minutes away.

My two working Filipino dorm buddies were friendly and informative, despite one snoring rather loudly, and doing his ironing in the morning. The barrack-room mentality usually wins out for me, though in recent years many westerners seem to have retreated into their social media shells. These two were good company, and two nights became three.

Davao City is the largest conurbation in MINDANAO, that historically restive southern province of the Philippines.

Though mainly Catholic, and well away from the south-western Muslim region around Zamboanga, Davao has suffered incidents in the past, though not since controversial President Duterte assumed power and started yielding it with zero tolerance. Security checks occur at malls, big shops and the bus station.

Having historical pesos (due to finding there was no departure tax for foreigners on my last trip; but 1,600 pesos for Filipinos!), my first few days were payrolled, but the scarcity of money-changers came as a surprise to this cash-carrying dinosaur.

Davao time in August is the same as Kuala Lumpur, from where my four-hour, £27, Air Asia flight had left, and hence sunrise and sunset are an hour earlier. It's light before 0600 and dark after 1800.

On my first Filipino morning I jeepneyed to Abreeza Mall at 0915, strolling around in bemusement at locals awaiting the 1000 opening.

The Mall's only currency exchange booth offered decent rates, despite the lack of competition (52.7 pesos per $, 67.7 per £).

Davao is a sprawling city, and notwithstanding certain attractions (the 33rd Kadayawan August harvest festival, Samal Island, durians, markets etc), three nights was enough for me. Historical sites are in short supply, though I did stumble across the incongruous D'Bone Collector Museum, for those with a penchant for animal skeletons.

When one starts to pine for a cool but sterile shopping mall, it's time to move on. I walked two km to Davao's Ecoland bus terminal, across the river. A seven-hour bus ride, with seven stops, took me north to the city of Butuan, a boring but cheap and convenient stop for the night.

Foreigners over 59 get 20% discount on buses and ferries. Buses are modern, with aircon, films and USB charging sockets.

The next day I pushed on two hours to the village of Balingoan, finding harbourside family digs for 250 pesos. Fish, meat and veggies abound at local eateries, 15-20 pesos per saucerful, 10 for rice.

I stayed a second night, walked up the hill through the palm groves, and watched the locals collecting seafood before sunset. I found an aircon shop coupled with indoor chairs, tables, music and chips. A 0.5 litre bottle of Red Horse, at 45 pesos, made a lot more sense than a litre at 120...

Ferries leave Balingoan several times a day to the picturesque volcanic island of CAMIGUIN, an hour's voyage, 205 pesos (£3) normal fare. Passengers come in on buses from Butuan or from Cagayan de Oro to the south-west. Despite tickets required to access the ship, boys were jumping off the top deck before it left, inviting people to throw coins in the water.

The Mindanao ferry arrives at the village of Benoni. Jeepneys ply the 25 km north to Mambajao for 23 pesos. I found the pleasant Sunriser Pension, near the market, 200 pesos a night, but without WiFi. I hardly noticed the 9.30 pm gate closure, being more interested in cooler early morning walks after 5.30 am.

WiFi was located at a local bar, near the unfinished, but already opened, Mambajao Gaisano, the first Department Store on the island, that packs sales in brown paper bags. It was chocker that Sunday afternoon, not least with staff and security personnel. The power went off for ten minutes and most locals continued shopping by the light of their mobile phones.

Wandering around town next morning I saw a tethered rooster dangling helplessly by one leg from it's perch, and so helped it out. Another morning I saw a scruffy little cat walking around, and the following day it lay lifeless in the grass whilst locals obliviously nattered across the road. Life can be unforgiving in these parts.

Camiguin has seven volcanoes and three main waterfalls but few decent beaches, being black sand or jagged volcanic rocks. White Island is a crescent-shaped sandbar exposed at low tide, a few hundred metres offshore Yumbing, a nice money-spinner for local boat-taxis. Manguite island is slightly north-east of Benoni.

Camiguin is famous for the langsat or lanzones fruit, a member of the mahogany family, marked by a week-long festival in October.

One morning I set off at 0600 and walked a rustic hour up to Katibawasan Falls, the highest on Camiguin, 76 metres, in a lush green setting. Apart from the darting swifts, I had the pool to myself, with just birdsong for company; pure bliss. The 50-peso entry fee ensures the site is kept clean. I returned two mornings later.

That afternoon I took a jeepney going anticlockwise towards Catarman, alighting opposite the Sunken Cemetery, marked with a big cross one hundred metres offshore. This is a result of the eruptions of nearby Mount Vulcan in 1827, 1862 and 1881. Further eruptions from 1948 until 1951 caused the cemetery to sink about 20 feet below the waves, and in 1982 a large cross was erected to mark the spot.

In a triumph of hope over experience, one side of Mount Vulcan has been developed as a walkway marked with statues depicting fifteen stations of the cross. It's a half-hour walk up, mostly in shade, but worth it for the views.

Mount Vulcan is technically a side-vent on the much larger Hibok-Hibok, but it's 19th and 20th century eruptions wiped out the old town of Catarman and resulted in nearly half of Camiguin's people leaving. The population has since recovered, tourism has developed and the Mount Hibok-Hibok area is now an ASEAN Heritage Park, mooted for UNESCO recognition. But it cannot be protected from itself...

One afternoon I visited St Nino cold springs near Catarman, a pleasant setting but not a patch on Katibawasan.

Another cloudy day I took a jeepney back to Benoni, and from there walked around Taguines Lagoon, picturesque even with it's zip-wire and other low-key commercialism. The area south of the lagoon is very lush, with many coconut, banana, mango and papaya trees. A few km further is the Giant Clam farm at White Beach, with snorkelling gear for rent.

On my last afternoon I walked past Mambajao's cock-fighting stadium (many motorbikes outside at weekends) up towards Ardent Hot Springs.

After a week I reluctantly dragged myself away from Camiguin.

Ferries leave Balbigon Port, just outside Mambajao, daily at 0800, on the three-hour voyage to Jagna, on the southern coast of BOHOL, 405 pesos normal fare. As we sailed north to Bohol the ugly grey mass of Mambajao's Gaisano towered over the palm trees.

A new bus west towards Tagbilaran, alighting at Loey for another bus north-east, past Loboc, the Tarsier sanctuaries and Bila eco-park, to the small town of Batuan, close to the famous "Chocolate Hills".

Hammock Garden Hostel opened in April, in the barangay of Cambacay, 4 km from Batuan, set back from a new road with light traffic. Falling asleep to the sounds of frogs and crickets, awakening to the rooster chorus.

Set amongst coconut trees, and with open-air showers enclosed by bamboo walls, it's a clean, relaxing place, with an airy dorm and nutritious breakfast (omelette, spring rolls, banana, rice and porridge) for 300 pesos. Motorbikes can be rented for 400 pesos per day. There's no WiFi, but that and computers are free at the municipal library in town.

Much Filipino accommodation is dearer, but most places have double rooms for less than 1,300 pesos, twenty quid. I choose cheaper places, wanting cleanliness rather than luxury. Simplicity is fine, cheaper places are more homely.

I took a three-hour afternoon ferry from Ubay in the north-east of Bohol over to the small town of Bato on LEYTE, in the Eastern Visayas, and found my way a few km north to Hilongos. I'd located a new hotel with rooms for 199 pesos, but on arrival was told this was the rate for two hours, more for twelve...

Moving swiftly on, I found DV Lodge, off the main road and near the beach, getting a fan-room for 350 pesos, and a cold Red Horse brought to my door.

Leyte felt the full force of typhoon Haiyan, in 2013, which laid waste to much of the main city, Tacloban, causing damage throughout the region.

I pushed north, along the coast, to mellow Baybay ("Byebye"), and on to bustling Ormoc City, eventually deciding to take one more bus, over the hills to the small port town of Palompon.

Palompon is deceptive. In the afternoon it's a hot parochial town full of tricycles. In the evening locals come out in force. An open-air zumba session next to a 5-peso basketball game in the covered stadium, across the road from the old Spanish church square, and near the jetty, the bus station converted into an evening barbecue market.

Around town are many water dispensers, one peso for a plastic tube. Tuesday is a "non-plastic" day, but presumably not for the water machines.

The 18th century church is currently undergoing external maintenance, but is still open for prayer, aerated by a huge ceiling fan with 5-metre blades.

There are ferries from Palompon to Cebu City and to Bogo City in the north of CEBU ISLAND, and I'd come here to take the latter. The ferry passes Kalanggaman Island, with a few dozen coconut trees surrounded by white sandy beaches, a popular day-trip from Palompon or Malapascua.

Bogo is small but pleasant, and the modern Northomes Pension, at 300 pesos, great value, with tiled floors and a big hot-water bathroom shared with another room.

By the jetty is a BBQ Plaza, together with video karaoke bars, enticing for locals.

Fifty km north of Bogo is the northernmost point of Cebu Island, the village of Maya. There are two small jetties accessed by traditional Filipino bancas that ply the few km across to MALAPASCUA ISLAND.

At last, I got to walk on white sand! For an archipelago of over 7,000 islands, such places are sparser than one might suppose.

The main village is near Bounty Beach, where bancas arrive (at low tide) and most of the dive operations are based. A new jetty is being built in the opposite bay, though still shallow at low tide.

Malapascua is home to about 11,000 people (and, judging by the number of kids, rising), so cheap Filipino food is plentiful, alongside the overpriced tourist fare of beachfront Bounty.

The sandy market square is a good place to start. Veggies, fresh fish, meat and eggs. Pick and mix. Good meals for a quid, double that for a feast.

There are five main dive sites around Malapascua (including two islands, Chocolate and Gato...), the operators in strange symbiosis with local fishermen. Thresher sharks congregate near Maunad Shoal. White-tips and sea horses waft around.

The best beach is at the northern end of the island, thirty minutes walk along sandy tracks, concreted on slopes, lightly used by locals on motorbikes. Not quite squeaky sand, but fine enough to get everywhere.

I stayed in the 250-peso dormitory at Romantic Place for four nights, with a Thai chap and a French lady, both divers. The lodge has a small swimming pool and is set amid lush greenery, well-run, and nearly empty in August.

Given the basketball culture, Filipino low-season dovetails with European close-season. It's strange to think there's a country where most have never heard of Manchester United or their moaning manager...

Despite it's shortcomings (the global blight of plastic litter, too many Westerners running dive operations etc), it's hard to dislike the rustic ambience of Malapascua.

If it wasn't for the many Philippine Islands (Palawan is next on my list), I'd likely return. After years of happy snorkelling, Malapascua (or, more accurately, Jai and Noela) persuaded me to take a PADI diving course in the near future.

When my keys bounced off the bathroom floor into the central drain, the Romantic staff did their best to flush them out of the pipe, but to no avail, so I paid for the dorm key and had my locker padlock sawn off (memo to self: don't keep the spare padlock key in the locker).

My trip finale dawned, so I banca'd back to Maya and took the waiting bus south to the northern outskirts of Cebu City, Liloan.

Resort Cebu has an aircon dorm with satellite TV and cosy swimming pool, 275 pesos. Thomas from Stockholm has run the business for 11 years, his few rooms often full at weekends, Christmas and Easter.

Midweek and off-season, I had the dorm and pool to myself for three days, the TV a novelty. It was such a pleasure re-visiting Casablanca, not to mention the original Star Wars...

Papa Kit's marina and fishing lagoon at Liloan is a nice swimming spot, away from the strong tidal currents which have swept bridge-jumping kids out to sea in the past. There are now high fences to prevent such foolhardiness. The town gets it's name from the whirlpools created by these currents.

The old Spanish church in town, and the lighthouse at Bagacay Point, commissioned by Governor William Taft (later 27th US President) in 1903, are worth seeking out. Gaisano Mall, with it's customer-seeking drummers and trumpet players, is an interesting Filipino phenomenon.

In the evenings I frequented the oddly-named Firebowl Minimart, a marvellously quiet place selling cold beer and hot food, opposite a banana stall, with tables in front, light traffic and few people.

I saw more (tethered) cockerels in Liloan than anywhere, an avid Filipino hobby, since only a few seemed trained to fight, though no doubt all come to a sticky end.

Cebu airport is on MACTAN ISLAND, between Mandaue City and Lapu-Lapu, now adjoining conurbations of Cebu City. I walked across the bridge for good views of sprawling Cebu City, which I'd successfully avoided.

My flight leaves at 0700. I arrived at 1700, in a dry run to the new Terminal Two (in the Philippines, things have a habit of being opened before they are complete), and found the food-and-drink prices so exhorbitant that I retreated 2 km to normal Filipino eateries.

All that remains is the boring wait for 0400 check-in followed by payment of 750 pesos Terminal Fee (payable on all international flights, except from Manila...). Cebu-Mactan International Airport is airy but user-unfriendly, having to sit on the floor to charge my phone. The practical experience of leaving a country is as depressing as arriving...

When I think of the Philippines, it's not of paradisical islands, because the combined effects of indiscriminate litter, ever-increasing populations and global tourism have mostly rendered such ideals as pipe-dreams.

As much of a draw for me are friendly and relaxed Filipinos. A tropical cliché maybe, but exit polls don't lie. In some countries, many people don't acknowledge strangers, let alone talk to them...

Cheers
Taurus

Regdragon
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Re: Southern Philippines

#163954

Postby Regdragon » September 3rd, 2018, 3:59 pm

Hi Taurus,

Thanks for posting about your trip to the Philippines. It made me smile when you described previous security problems on Mindanao island, reminding me I met two Australian guys in El Nido, Palawan who were on a diving course. They said they normally lived on Mindanao with their Filipino wives and I said: “Really? Because of the security situation, our Foreign Office tells us to only travel on Mindanao if it’s essential” and they said: “Yeah, we think it’s great! It’s really helping to keep the prices down!”

I don’t know about you but I wouldn’t recommend El Nido on Palawan to anyone now - over-hyped and very over-crowded. Another Boracay in the making perhaps? Last time I heard, they were thinking of closing Boracay for a few months to clean it up. There are other ports from which you can get to see the Bacuit Archipelago off Palawan anyway.

I also smiled when you sensibly dodged Cebu city. Having retired a while ago I signed up to do some volunteering for a charity there this October and November. It’s going to be an experience, that’s for sure, but i’ll finish that stint with a break in Dumaguete and Siquijor Island - much cleaner air there and a few nice beaches.

Thanks again for continuing to post and all the travel ideas.

Regards

RD

sedices
Posts: 8
Joined: September 15th, 2018, 9:00 am

Re: Southern Philippines

#174585

Postby sedices » October 18th, 2018, 6:21 am

What's there to do in Davao? It seems rural to me.


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