Some time ago I had a replacement shower. Used fibre board instead of tiles.
Nothing but trouble from the start. I'll get to my point. We've had it resiliconed about 6 times yet it always ends up leaking. The leak is where the board sits on the shower tray.
Any tips would be gratefully received.
LTB
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Leaking shower.
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Re: Leaking shower.
Leothebear wrote:Some time ago I had a replacement shower. Used fibre board instead of tiles.
Nothing but trouble from the start. I'll get to my point. We've had it resiliconed about 6 times yet it always ends up leaking. The leak is where the board sits on the shower tray.
Any tips would be gratefully received.
LTB
Is the tray fibreglass/plastic?
If so they always flex a little when you stand on them a this seems to be enough to cause the silicone to break after a while...even though it is supposed to be flexible.
Even if you have a less flexible ceramic tray, the floor, if it is wooden, can still flex enough to crack the sealant.
The fact you have had it redone so many time suggests to me that the only way to fix it is to take out the tray and fibreboard and start again...sorry.
John
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Re: Leaking shower.
Not sure if I'm visualisng it correctly , but could you load the shower tray (bricks etc) then reseal, so when the load is removed the seal is under slight compression ?
(I've been told that sealing around bath should be done with the bath full of water, so it's in its 'loaded' state)
(I've been told that sealing around bath should be done with the bath full of water, so it's in its 'loaded' state)
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Re: Leaking shower.
AleisterCrowley wrote: could you load the shower tray (bricks etc) then reseal, so when the load is removed the seal is under slight compression ? (I've been told that sealing around bath should be done with the bath full of water, so it's in its 'loaded' state)
Good thinking.
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Re: Leaking shower.
Hi LTB,
In my opinion, preparation is absolutely key to successful siliconing. In an ideal world your fibreboard would extend behind the shower tray and then you would just filling the gap.
The problem with fibreboard is that it flexes and that will put a strain on any siliconing. Then you are massively exposed to 100% guaranteed adhesion of the silicone to both surfaces and its ability to flex in situ after application. The former is extremely difficult enough to achieve on a new install when you have pristine surfaces. On a re-do, then inevitably, neither surfaces will be entirely clean and therefore the adhesion cannot be guaranteed.
In my bathroom I have tiles on concrete-based backboard. I siliconed the vertical gap between the board and the bath, waited for a short while, but not enough to dry fully and then silicone the horizontal gap between the bath and the tiles.
Another critical thing is to use the absolute best silicone you can - in my experience there is only one choice - Dow Corning 785 - It's only 4.49 in screwfix - don't be tempted to get the solvent-free version, it's not as good IMO
I actually regret my choice of tiles. If I were to do the job again I would abandon tiles entirely and install single sheets of back-painted glass. I have done this in my kitchen splashbacks and it is superb-looking and astonishingly easy to keep clean with as aggressive a cleaning product as you want to use.
If you want (or are forced) to persist with the fibreboard then it is imperative that you prevent as much flexing as possible at the point at which the board joins the shower tray.
Regards
Pheid
In my opinion, preparation is absolutely key to successful siliconing. In an ideal world your fibreboard would extend behind the shower tray and then you would just filling the gap.
The problem with fibreboard is that it flexes and that will put a strain on any siliconing. Then you are massively exposed to 100% guaranteed adhesion of the silicone to both surfaces and its ability to flex in situ after application. The former is extremely difficult enough to achieve on a new install when you have pristine surfaces. On a re-do, then inevitably, neither surfaces will be entirely clean and therefore the adhesion cannot be guaranteed.
In my bathroom I have tiles on concrete-based backboard. I siliconed the vertical gap between the board and the bath, waited for a short while, but not enough to dry fully and then silicone the horizontal gap between the bath and the tiles.
Another critical thing is to use the absolute best silicone you can - in my experience there is only one choice - Dow Corning 785 - It's only 4.49 in screwfix - don't be tempted to get the solvent-free version, it's not as good IMO
I actually regret my choice of tiles. If I were to do the job again I would abandon tiles entirely and install single sheets of back-painted glass. I have done this in my kitchen splashbacks and it is superb-looking and astonishingly easy to keep clean with as aggressive a cleaning product as you want to use.
If you want (or are forced) to persist with the fibreboard then it is imperative that you prevent as much flexing as possible at the point at which the board joins the shower tray.
Regards
Pheid
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