The Lemon Fool

I should known this but, are they all the same size for bath taps, bathroom washbasins, & small hand basins?

In other words, can I just buy a handful before I turn off the water, or do I have to dismantle 1 of each set of taps to see what they've got?


Slarti

I believe they traditionally came in two sizes, one for bath taps, another smaller size for sinks and basins.

With the fashion today of change for change's sake, not sure if it's still as true...

I've only ever encountered the two sizes, except for the 1970s-style Supataps, which ISTR used a different system. (A small rubber disc embedded in a brass mushroom.) In practice, I'd be surprised if you can't buy a multi-pack that covers all eventualities.

Spend some time degunking the screw mechanism while you're at it. Good luck!

BH

One of our local shops has a display with numerous different types in bags, though some with different part numbers appear to be the same size. The good news is that you undo any stuck threads the first time so it's easy to do a repeat. You might be able to get away with reversing the washer.

If the taps are old or have been left dripping for a long time take a look at the seat. If it has a radial wear groove it might need grinding, for which you can buy a tool. If there are any small parts don't forget to put the plug in the sink!

In the old days when taps were to BS1010, you would get 1/2" washers for basin and sink taps and 3/4" washers for bath taps. Supataps had domed washers but that was pretty-much it. These types of washers are still used in outside taps and stop-cocks.

Unless your taps are ancient, they will probably be to BS5412. Suitable washers are available but I recommend that you replace the entire headwork (often called a tap valve) if possible as there are other bits that wear out (such as the two O-rings).

The readily available headworks with 20 splines fit the majority of taps (for example, https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-thr ... pack/3279f ). You can get them with or without a thread at the top to take a screw-on collar. (The ones with this thread fit most (not all) taps that do not require it.)

The lower part of the headwork is standard - any headwork should fit any tap of the same size. The top part of the headwork varies both in the number of splines and the height of the shoulder that the handle fits onto. Online suppliers exist, e.g., http://www.plumbers-mate-sales.co.uk/re ... -133-c.asp (not a personal recommendation as I have not used them) or (mainly for ceramic valves) https://www.tapmagician.co.uk/TMDefault.aspx .

If the headworks are unavailable (or are horrendously expensive), another option is to get tap revivers. These include both the headworks and the handles, for example, https://www.screwfix.com/p/swirl-bathro ... -kit/32730 .

Good luck unscrewing the old ones A ring spanner is best, and a way of holding the spout (such as two pieces of wood bolted together) so the whole tap doesn't turn (check for leaks underneath if it does).

Julian F. G. W.

For those in very hard water areas and/or with arthritic hands and/or just not that strong in the first place, may I recommend this gadget called a tap splitter from ABD TOOLS http://www.abdtoools.co.uk

Unusually for gadgets it works and it works every time and allows even the feeblest to sort out dripping taps.

http://abdtools.co.uk/WebRoot/epagesUK/Shops/abdtools/MediaGallery/User_Guides_Flyers/TapSplitter_Instructions_page_v1-3.pdf

N.B. I strongly suspect it was someone on The Lemon Fool or maybe the old Motley Fool that told me about this wonderful gadget in the first place.

Thanks for all the responses.

I popped into the local hardware shop while up the town and bought a handful of washers 1/2" washers on the grounds that if 1 pair of taps are strange and need a different size, the extras still won't come in wrong.

Now all I've got to do is persuade all of the tap heads to unscrew, which on previous experience, could be interesting.


Oh, and I learned about always putting the plug in from my dad, long long ago, when he dropped a screw down down the plughole.


Mel, the ADB Tools site appears to be broken or hacked as it redirects you to a very strange address http://ww25.abdtoools.co.uk/?z which in Firefox is blank and in IE does not appear to be anything to do with the tap splitter.

Slarti

Slarti wrote:Thanks for all the responses.

Mel, the ADB Tools site appears to be broken or hacked as it redirects you to a very strange address http://ww25.abdtoools.co.uk/?z which in Firefox is blank and in IE does not appear to be anything to do with the tap splitter.

Slarti

Try this: http://abdtools.co.uk/epages/abdtools.s ... AB-TSR-002

--kiloran

kiloran wrote:

Slarti wrote:Thanks for all the responses.

Mel, the ADB Tools site appears to be broken or hacked as it redirects you to a very strange address http://ww25.abdtoools.co.uk/?z which in Firefox is blank and in IE does not appear to be anything to do with the tap splitter.

Slarti

Try this: http://abdtools.co.uk/epages/abdtools.s ... AB-TSR-002

--kiloran

Works a treat and looks wildly different to the other page.

Thanks
Slarti

Slarti wrote:Thanks for all the responses.

I popped into the local hardware shop while up the town and bought a handful of washers 1/2" washers on the grounds that if 1 pair of taps are strange and need a different size, the extras still won't come in wrong.
Slarti

If your taps are remotely modern, those 1/2" washers will be too big.

If, when you take off the handle (or shroud if it has one), and you see that the tap has been leaking around the spindle, you need more than just a washer. The old taps were usually repacked with nylon string and Vaseline (neither of which are WRAS approved). Silicone grease is better than Vaseline. The newer taps with non-rising spindles usually have a couple of O-rings to make the seal.

Julian F. G. W.

Probably a bit late, but beware of just applying more force to undo the tap head. If the taps were properly made with squares that locate into a square in the basin, you can split the basin in two.
How do I know that.

For greasing the spindle threads, Marine Grease is excellent. Also known as Engine Building Grease.

V8

Update.

Managed to free the outer bit on 2, so far, by liberal application of lime scale dissolver followed by poking bits out until the X in the top of the screw is clear, then applying WD40 and a tap on the end of the screwdriver with a hammer allows the bit you hold to be removed, revealing the gubbins underneath.

When I've got all 4 washbasin taps in that state, then I'll turn the water off to do the actual job.

If I ever have any new plumbing installed, anywhere I'm going to ensure that the taps have easily accessible isolator valves.

Slarti