The Lemon Fool

I have an outside light that is hard-wired in to an internal switch. I don't use this light any more, having put up a solar-powered jobbie, but I would like to get a cctv camera, is there any reason why I can't use the existing wiring for the light to run the camera?

hermit100 wrote:I have an outside light that is hard-wired in to an internal switch. I don't use this light any more, having put up a solar-powered jobbie, but I would like to get a cctv camera, is there any reason why I can't use the existing wiring for the light to run the camera?

I would say that as long as you can tick all the following boxes, you should be in the clear:

1) Some way to positively isolate the supply (13A socket, fused spur outlet)
2) Label the outlet with something like "Fed from downstairs light circuit/Max Load 6A"
3) Any 240v wiring has proper mechanical protection (e.g. in conduit, trunking)
4) Avoid placing network or video cables parallel to mains cabling.

PochiSoldi

pochisoldi wrote:

hermit100 wrote:I have an outside light that is hard-wired in to an internal switch. I don't use this light any more, having put up a solar-powered jobbie, but I would like to get a cctv camera, is there any reason why I can't use the existing wiring for the light to run the camera?

I would say that as long as you can tick all the following boxes, you should be in the clear:

1) Some way to positively isolate the supply (13A socket, fused spur outlet)
2) Label the outlet with something like "Fed from downstairs light circuit/Max Load 6A"
3) Any 240v wiring has proper mechanical protection (e.g. in conduit, trunking)
4) Avoid placing network or video cables parallel to mains cabling.

PochiSoldi

The camera will usually take far less current than an external light so for safety reasons, not a problem.

John

hermit100 wrote:I have an outside light that is hard-wired in to an internal switch. I don't use this light any more, having put up a solar-powered jobbie, but I would like to get a cctv camera, is there any reason why I can't use the existing wiring for the light to run the camera?

In addition to the things pochisoldi has mentioned, whatever is installed outside must be suitably waterproof (e.g. IPX4) and usually* needs to be protected by a 30mA RCD, which lighting circuits are often not.

Regards,
Chris

* This depends upon how you implement it but from 1 January 2019 (18th Ed.) onwards all lighting circuits (that have been installed, altered, or extended) will have to be so protected.

Thanks all. I'll be getting an electrician to do it so will make sure he checks off all of those things (which if he's any good he will anyway of course).

It was suggested to me that should you be able to fit a 3 pin plug and plug it into an internal house socket then that would meet electrical requirements. Perhaps an electrician can confirm or otherwise ?

richlist wrote:It was suggested to me that should you be able to fit a 3 pin plug and plug it into an internal house socket then that would meet electrical requirements. Perhaps an electrician can confirm or otherwise ?

This chimes with my understanding, the logic being that if you simply plug something in, it is not a change to the wiring or circuitry.

It doesn't, of course, mean it will be safe...

richlist wrote:It was suggested to me that should you be able to fit a 3 pin plug and plug it into an internal house socket then that would meet electrical requirements. Perhaps an electrician can confirm or otherwise ?

Yes I think that is true. The regulations only apply to the fixed wiring. So if you are just utilising an inside socket fitted in accordance with the regs in force at the time then you are ok (mind you I'd want to make sure water wasn't going to follow the lead in from the outside camera).

My understanding though was that the OP wanted to alter the use of a part of the fixed wiring for a different purpose, one which would probably involve altering the way that is was terminated.

Regards,
Chris

I must be missing something here. The three cameras on my CCTV system run on 12 volts, not 240 volts. And they get that from the signal cables that connect them to the central box. That's the only part of the system that needs a mains voltage.

I can't speak for cameras that run on wifi, though. Is that what the OP is thinking of doing?

BJ

The cable to your light is probably 1mm which takes 16A.
As long as there is an in line fuse for your camera, with less than this, say 3A, it would be safe.

Whether it meets all the meddling regulations is another matter.

jaizan wrote:The cable to your light is probably 1mm which takes 16A.
As long as there is an in line fuse for your camera, with less than this, say 3A, it would be safe.

Whether it meets all the meddling regulations is another matter.

The current carrying capacity of the cable is only one aspect of the safety of the installation. There are others. C.

csearle wrote:

jaizan wrote:The cable to your light is probably 1mm which takes 16A.
As long as there is an in line fuse for your camera, with less than this, say 3A, it would be safe.

Whether it meets all the meddling regulations is another matter.

The current carrying capacity of the cable is only one aspect of the safety of the installation. There are others. C.

Discrimination is one of them.
If there's a fault with the camera PSU, you want the fuse feeding the camera to blow, not the upstream breaker which will take out the lights as well.
It's not inconceivable that this could trigger a "stumble and break your neck in the dark" type situation.

PochiSoldi

Um OK, I don't actually what sort of camera I'd be getting as I haven't bought one yet I just figured it would need a power supply. Thanks for all the input, looks like I need to do a bit more research......

Just out of interest I looked at the details of the "Hive View Outdoor".

The power supply for that product is

AC power adaptor, Input: 100-240V, 50/60Hz, Output: 5.0VDC, 2.5A
Removable pins
7.5m USB power cable

From which I deduce that it is plugged in indoors and the cable is routed through suitable holes to the outside....

One system I installed in a shop for a customer had a special cable to each camera with the video and power together (not sure if they were superimposed on the same conductors or separate). Anyway it was all extra-low voltage stuff and very easy. C.

I installed a couple of systems a few years back. The cable was "shotgun" style with power and coax joined. These split out to two separate connectors at the ends: BNC for the signal and a normal round power connector for the 12V supply. Wireless ones are available which will only need power.

Julian F. G. W.

Power over Ethernet might be worth considering?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_over_Ethernet

I've been thinking about using it but it's a job I've been putting off

RC