In my small block of flats the stairwell ceilings and the outer stringers of the stairs are white painted concrete and are in need of repainting, and I'm wondering what kind of paint would be best.
The ceilings obviously take no wear and tear but the inner side of the stringers get scuffed and, as can be seen, the bottom corners get knocked (I'll be filling that before painting), and the top of the stringers tend to gather dust and grime, so the paint needs to be reasonably tough and must be washable -- and likely to last well for a couple of decades, as it'll probably be that long before they're repainted again.
I was thinking of floor paint, e.g. https://www.diy.com/departments/colours ... 324_BQ.prd, and was wondering if anyone had any other suggestions. Thanks.
Photo by me. https://imgur.com/a/SRRx3xH
P.S. Yes, the coverage figure on the B&Q page is obviously nonsense. The can itself says it covers 30m2, i.e. 12m2/litre.
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Interior concrete paint
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- Lemon Half
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Re: Interior concrete paint
It depends what is already on there(!) as the 'wrong' paint might not stock too well.
The floor paint you selected would provide a much more durable finish than masonry paint, but my experience of floor paints is they are a bit 'fussy' about the surface prep and likely to flake if not done properly. This one may be different.
However for this I would use a masonry paint, as that is probably what was used originally. Masonry paint is available as glossy (rather than the Satin you have picked) which may be easier to remove scuffs, and does tend to adhere pretty well to most surfaces and finishes (even plastic gutters).
For the chip at the bottom you will find most fillers will break off easily, some fine sand and cement might be more durable, just a bit of a job to get small amounts to the correct 'wetness'. Alternatively get an exterior masonry filler like Tetrion or Toupret or even tile grout is pretty chip resistant.
Paul
The floor paint you selected would provide a much more durable finish than masonry paint, but my experience of floor paints is they are a bit 'fussy' about the surface prep and likely to flake if not done properly. This one may be different.
However for this I would use a masonry paint, as that is probably what was used originally. Masonry paint is available as glossy (rather than the Satin you have picked) which may be easier to remove scuffs, and does tend to adhere pretty well to most surfaces and finishes (even plastic gutters).
For the chip at the bottom you will find most fillers will break off easily, some fine sand and cement might be more durable, just a bit of a job to get small amounts to the correct 'wetness'. Alternatively get an exterior masonry filler like Tetrion or Toupret or even tile grout is pretty chip resistant.
Paul
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- Lemon Quarter
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Re: Interior concrete paint
Maintenance of the common areas of leasehold flats is usually the responsibility of the freeholder.
Are you the freeholders ?
Are you the freeholders ?
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- Lemon Half
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Re: Interior concrete paint
DrFfybes wrote:It depends what is already on there(!) as the 'wrong' paint might not stock too well.
The floor paint you selected would provide a much more durable finish than masonry paint, but my experience of floor paints is they are a bit 'fussy' about the surface prep and likely to flake if not done properly. This one may be different.
Thanks for the reply. I've no idea what is on there already as good chance it's original (1979) and certainly none of the residents (25 years the longest) remember it ever being repainted before.
I wasn't particularly wedded to the paint I linked to, it was just an example, but I do note it says "Surface preparation: Wire brush concrete stone or brick & wipe down with white spirit", which would take the surface down pretty well on the stringers, but wire brushing the stairwell ceilings would be a real p.i.t.a. and I was hoping to get away with just washing them down with a sponge mop...
However for this I would use a masonry paint, as that is probably what was used originally. Masonry paint is available as glossy (rather than the Satin you have picked) which may be easier to remove scuffs, and does tend to adhere pretty well to most surfaces and finishes (even plastic gutters).
Got an example of one such that you'd recommend?
For the chip at the bottom you will find most fillers will break off easily, some fine sand and cement might be more durable, just a bit of a job to get small amounts to the correct 'wetness'. Alternatively get an exterior masonry filler like Tetrion or Toupret or even tile grout is pretty chip resistant.
Yes, when I said "fill" I was intending to use quick setting cement.
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- Lemon Half
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Re: Interior concrete paint
richlist wrote:Maintenance of the common areas of leasehold flats is usually the responsibility of the freeholder.
Are you the freeholders ?
Yes.
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Re: Interior concrete paint
Keim provide good quality paints for concrete substrates. I have used it on exposed concrete stair soffits, but long ago, so I dont know if there are better products on the market.
The website is quite comprehensive with product selector facility.
https://www.keim.com/en-gb/interiors/
The website is quite comprehensive with product selector facility.
https://www.keim.com/en-gb/interiors/
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- Lemon Quarter
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Re: Interior concrete paint
mc2fool wrote:However for this I would use a masonry paint, as that is probably what was used originally. Masonry paint is available as glossy (rather than the Satin you have picked) which may be easier to remove scuffs, and does tend to adhere pretty well to most surfaces and finishes (even plastic gutters).
Got an example of one such that you'd recommend?
I tend to go with Sandtex ultra smooth - I used several that were own brand for basic white, but then needed a specific grey to match in and thought 'oh, this covers much better' and stuck with it.
Paul
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