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Scantronic Burglar Alarm

Does what it says on the tin
genou
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Scantronic Burglar Alarm

#248116

Postby genou » August 30th, 2019, 4:33 pm

I have an antique burglar alarm - a Scantronic 9448. I have the installation guide, and know the code to get it into engineering mode. The only thing I have ever done to it was to replace the internal battery in the control panel.

It has door sensors, panic alarm and "broken window" ( vibration I assume ) sensors attached.

We are re-glazing the house and I want to decommission the window sensors. So the question is - how ? Can I just cut the wires to the sensors ( and terminate the stubs in chocolate box or some such ), or do I need to detach the wiring at the control box terminals. I know that latter is the better approach, but in the fullness of time I want to remove the whole installation, and I have visions of setting off the sounder interminably trying and failing to do a better job when a bodge will do.......

If I do need to do it properly I don't understand PCB layout diagram, but I'll follow up on that if needed.

I don't know where the sounder is attached to the mains - I'd guess they've just wired it to the nearest socket as a spur - is that likely ?

supremetwo
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Re: Scantronic Burglar Alarm

#248124

Postby supremetwo » August 30th, 2019, 4:52 pm

Depends how the window sensors are wired - they may be in series with other contacts.

Easier if they are on a separate circuit, then best to disconnect at the control box end and link the window contact terminals in the control box.

There is also the issue of the tamper circuit if fitted and that will also need to be complete.

Sounders usually run on 12V dc via the control box (with an internal battery back-up in both) and thus not mains-connected.

genou
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Re: Scantronic Burglar Alarm

#248130

Postby genou » August 30th, 2019, 5:12 pm

supremetwo wrote:Depends how the window sensors are wired - they may be in series with other contacts.

Easier if they are on a separate circuit, then best to disconnect at the control box end and link the window contact terminals in the control box.

There is also the issue of the tamper circuit if fitted and that will also need to be complete.

That would require me to understand the terminal diagram I fear.
supremetwo wrote:
Sounders usually run on 12V dc via the control box (with an internal battery back-up in both) and thus not mains-connected.


Gordon Bennett. I replaced the internal battery in the control box when the sounder fired when I killed the mains ( only one circuit, looking at the wiring it is on the ground/cellar ring ) a few years ago. Quite pleased at the time I'd worked out what was going on. That would imply the battery in the sounder must be on its last legs ( or stone dead ) as well. I suppose I should test for that. I'll take another look at the CP - I cant see where the CP<>sounder connection can be.

ReformedCharacter
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Re: Scantronic Burglar Alarm

#248136

Postby ReformedCharacter » August 30th, 2019, 5:38 pm

I have a Scantronics alarm system which I installed myself but a slightly more modern one than yours. When I have decommisioned items I have done it via the keypad in programming mode. I'll look out the manual later but I'm a tad busy at the moment...

RC

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Re: Scantronic Burglar Alarm

#248142

Postby ReformedCharacter » August 30th, 2019, 6:01 pm

Judging from:

https://www.paragonfire.co.uk/wp-conten ... manual.pdf

You need to mark the zone as not in use. This thread may help with the physical connections:

https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/scan ... ow.392830/

RC

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Re: Scantronic Burglar Alarm

#248144

Postby pochisoldi » August 30th, 2019, 6:12 pm

genou wrote:
supremetwo wrote:Depends how the window sensors are wired - they may be in series with other contacts.

Easier if they are on a separate circuit, then best to disconnect at the control box end and link the window contact terminals in the control box.

There is also the issue of the tamper circuit if fitted and that will also need to be complete.

That would require me to understand the terminal diagram I fear.

Individual zones are connected to pairs of terminals labelled Zn (where n=zone number), e.g. Z1, Z2, Z3...
Same routine when you identify the zone - defeat it by removing the wires from the two terminals, and fit a wire link, zone disabled.
(NB: make sure you insulate and label and the wires you disconnect in case you need to put them back!!)

Tamper circuit is connected to the pair of "A/T" terminals. If there is a wire link fitted, no more work required - it's not enabled.
Otherwise remove the wires and fit a wire link, anti tamper removed.
(same routine of insulate+label when you remove the wires)

Note that the anti tamper circuit usually does the job for all zones.

genou
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Re: Scantronic Burglar Alarm

#249263

Postby genou » September 4th, 2019, 2:00 pm

pochisoldi wrote:Individual zones are connected to pairs of terminals labelled Zn (where n=zone number), e.g. Z1, Z2, Z3...
Same routine when you identify the zone - defeat it by removing the wires from the two terminals, and fit a wire link, zone disabled.
(NB: make sure you insulate and label and the wires you disconnect in case you need to put them back!!)

Tamper circuit is connected to the pair of "A/T" terminals. If there is a wire link fitted, no more work required - it's not enabled.
Otherwise remove the wires and fit a wire link, anti tamper removed.
(same routine of insulate+label when you remove the wires)

Note that the anti tamper circuit usually does the job for all zones.


Thanks for this. I've been away hence the radio silence. I think this solves the issue for me - I'll have a play and report back.


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