I have an antique burglar alarm - a Scantronic 9448. I have the installation guide, and know the code to get it into engineering mode. The only thing I have ever done to it was to replace the internal battery in the control panel.
It has door sensors, panic alarm and "broken window" ( vibration I assume ) sensors attached.
We are re-glazing the house and I want to decommission the window sensors. So the question is - how ? Can I just cut the wires to the sensors ( and terminate the stubs in chocolate box or some such ), or do I need to detach the wiring at the control box terminals. I know that latter is the better approach, but in the fullness of time I want to remove the whole installation, and I have visions of setting off the sounder interminably trying and failing to do a better job when a bodge will do.......
If I do need to do it properly I don't understand PCB layout diagram, but I'll follow up on that if needed.
I don't know where the sounder is attached to the mains - I'd guess they've just wired it to the nearest socket as a spur - is that likely ?
Got a credit card? use our Credit Card & Finance Calculators
Thanks to Rhyd6,eyeball08,Wondergirly,bofh,johnstevens77, for Donating to support the site
Scantronic Burglar Alarm
-
- Lemon Quarter
- Posts: 1007
- Joined: November 8th, 2016, 2:20 am
- Has thanked: 130 times
- Been thanked: 196 times
Re: Scantronic Burglar Alarm
Depends how the window sensors are wired - they may be in series with other contacts.
Easier if they are on a separate circuit, then best to disconnect at the control box end and link the window contact terminals in the control box.
There is also the issue of the tamper circuit if fitted and that will also need to be complete.
Sounders usually run on 12V dc via the control box (with an internal battery back-up in both) and thus not mains-connected.
Easier if they are on a separate circuit, then best to disconnect at the control box end and link the window contact terminals in the control box.
There is also the issue of the tamper circuit if fitted and that will also need to be complete.
Sounders usually run on 12V dc via the control box (with an internal battery back-up in both) and thus not mains-connected.
-
- Lemon Quarter
- Posts: 1082
- Joined: November 4th, 2016, 1:12 pm
- Has thanked: 178 times
- Been thanked: 373 times
Re: Scantronic Burglar Alarm
supremetwo wrote:Depends how the window sensors are wired - they may be in series with other contacts.
Easier if they are on a separate circuit, then best to disconnect at the control box end and link the window contact terminals in the control box.
There is also the issue of the tamper circuit if fitted and that will also need to be complete.
That would require me to understand the terminal diagram I fear.
supremetwo wrote:
Sounders usually run on 12V dc via the control box (with an internal battery back-up in both) and thus not mains-connected.
Gordon Bennett. I replaced the internal battery in the control box when the sounder fired when I killed the mains ( only one circuit, looking at the wiring it is on the ground/cellar ring ) a few years ago. Quite pleased at the time I'd worked out what was going on. That would imply the battery in the sounder must be on its last legs ( or stone dead ) as well. I suppose I should test for that. I'll take another look at the CP - I cant see where the CP<>sounder connection can be.
-
- Lemon Quarter
- Posts: 3141
- Joined: November 4th, 2016, 11:12 am
- Has thanked: 3642 times
- Been thanked: 1522 times
Re: Scantronic Burglar Alarm
I have a Scantronics alarm system which I installed myself but a slightly more modern one than yours. When I have decommisioned items I have done it via the keypad in programming mode. I'll look out the manual later but I'm a tad busy at the moment...
RC
RC
-
- Lemon Quarter
- Posts: 3141
- Joined: November 4th, 2016, 11:12 am
- Has thanked: 3642 times
- Been thanked: 1522 times
Re: Scantronic Burglar Alarm
Judging from:
https://www.paragonfire.co.uk/wp-conten ... manual.pdf
You need to mark the zone as not in use. This thread may help with the physical connections:
https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/scan ... ow.392830/
RC
https://www.paragonfire.co.uk/wp-conten ... manual.pdf
You need to mark the zone as not in use. This thread may help with the physical connections:
https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/scan ... ow.392830/
RC
-
- Lemon Slice
- Posts: 943
- Joined: November 4th, 2016, 11:33 am
- Has thanked: 32 times
- Been thanked: 462 times
Re: Scantronic Burglar Alarm
genou wrote:supremetwo wrote:Depends how the window sensors are wired - they may be in series with other contacts.
Easier if they are on a separate circuit, then best to disconnect at the control box end and link the window contact terminals in the control box.
There is also the issue of the tamper circuit if fitted and that will also need to be complete.
That would require me to understand the terminal diagram I fear.
Individual zones are connected to pairs of terminals labelled Zn (where n=zone number), e.g. Z1, Z2, Z3...
Same routine when you identify the zone - defeat it by removing the wires from the two terminals, and fit a wire link, zone disabled.
(NB: make sure you insulate and label and the wires you disconnect in case you need to put them back!!)
Tamper circuit is connected to the pair of "A/T" terminals. If there is a wire link fitted, no more work required - it's not enabled.
Otherwise remove the wires and fit a wire link, anti tamper removed.
(same routine of insulate+label when you remove the wires)
Note that the anti tamper circuit usually does the job for all zones.
-
- Lemon Quarter
- Posts: 1082
- Joined: November 4th, 2016, 1:12 pm
- Has thanked: 178 times
- Been thanked: 373 times
Re: Scantronic Burglar Alarm
pochisoldi wrote:Individual zones are connected to pairs of terminals labelled Zn (where n=zone number), e.g. Z1, Z2, Z3...
Same routine when you identify the zone - defeat it by removing the wires from the two terminals, and fit a wire link, zone disabled.
(NB: make sure you insulate and label and the wires you disconnect in case you need to put them back!!)
Tamper circuit is connected to the pair of "A/T" terminals. If there is a wire link fitted, no more work required - it's not enabled.
Otherwise remove the wires and fit a wire link, anti tamper removed.
(same routine of insulate+label when you remove the wires)
Note that the anti tamper circuit usually does the job for all zones.
Thanks for this. I've been away hence the radio silence. I think this solves the issue for me - I'll have a play and report back.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 28 guests