The Lemon Fool

I've acquired some highly experienced bricklayers and need to make a return on their skills.

If anyone needs some bricklayers in the near future please let me know. Mates rates

Here's an example of their work


Source: https://media-exp3.licdn.com/dms/image/ ... Apx8KwLhtY

They are good at plumbing and heating too


Source: https://media-exp3.licdn.com/dms/image/ ... Dl7sGv1ifY

AiY

AsleepInYorkshire wrote:I've acquired some highly experienced bricklayers and need to make a return on their skills.

If anyone needs some bricklayers in the near future please let me know. Mates rates

Here's an example of their work


AiY

Can guarantee if you wanted that (whatever it is) you would not be able to find anyone to do it for you!

I'm sure that, if you pan out, the bricks become a Channel 4 logo.

Laughton wrote:I'm sure that, if you pan out, the bricks become a Channel 4 logo.

They even have a trade mark

Source: https://media-exp3.licdn.com/dms/image/ ... Thj01klvkY

AiY

LOL, I've seen a single-brick garden wall that had been deliberately built all wonky like that. It was (you may say) a "feature".

Expensive part of Surrey. More money than sense, some people. No strength whatsoever. It'd collapse like a game of Jenga the first time you nudged it with the Bentley.

BJ

When fitting an undersink water heater, try to squeeze it in as tightly under the sink as you can. It is called an "undersink" water heater for a reason. Don't worry if it prevents the trap from fitting properly so that it leaks into the heater - water heaters are meant to have water in them:

(My photo).

Unfortunately, I did not photograph the pressure relief valve. This is an important safety device that prevents the water heater from exploding and killing you if the thermostat and high limit stat both fail. This should discharge safely, usually to outside. If you can't be bothered to do this, just aim the outlet at the floor so that it discharges indoors. This should not be a problem as it should only discharge if there is a dangerous combination of faults (or in the unlikely event that someone tries to test it). A simple way of preventing this risk is to fit a Speedfit stop-end to the outlet, thus, rendering the safety device ineffective. (Yes, this is how it was found!)


Julian F. G. W.

jfgw wrote:When fitting an undersink water heater....

The heater in our kitchen had a red pressure vessel.
They are only for use on sealed systems, and if used on potable water they can/will rust and eventually leak/explode.
It was only quite by chance that I learned this and swapped it for a blue one before it blew the wife's legs off.

At least the pictured heater has the right vessel ... blue or white... so it's not all bad.

V8

AsleepInYorkshire wrote:I've acquired some highly experienced bricklayers and need to make a return on their skills.

They are good at plumbing and heating too


Source: https://media-exp3.licdn.com/dms/image/ ... Dl7sGv1ifY

AiY

That's fine, as long as the bleed nipple is at the top.

I've finally gotten around to setting up an image hosting thing.

When the shower pump failed, I took the panel off the 'box' housing them, and found this..

https://imgur.com/a/MiEqU2S

22mm plastic into and out of the cupboard feeding 2 pumps. I think there are about 40 connections in total, and it didn't leak.

Presumably they didn't make 22 to 15mm reducing elbows when it was first installed

I think someone has shares in pushfit.

Paul