Upgrade main fuse at meter

[csearle]

Would I be right in thinking that only the provider is allowed to touch these redundant tail cables, or could any sparky do it?

If they are dead and effectively no longer part of the electrical installation then I would have no hesitation in removing them along with any obsolete switchgear. If you take the tails to your nearest scrap merchant you might get a quid or three for them! C.

[funduffer]

No they wouldn't. When I issue EICRs I just write Unkn. in the appropriate box if the amperage isn't written on the fuse holder. As far as I know we are not allowed to remove the service fuse. C.

Chris, you are quite right in that electricians are not allowed to remove the service fuse or touch the fuseholder. This is the property of the DNO and only authorised persons are allow to work on it. The authorised persons are the DNOs own staff and some people who fit Smart Meters, who have been trained to do this work and are issued with seals by the DNO.

I understand that one of the reasons DNOs do this normally for free, is to discourage unauthorised tampering, which can be dangerous and even fatal.

I am currently having the service fuse upgraded and so far have found UKPN. our DNO, very helpful, far better than most ultility cos.

Yesterday I had a meter engineer round to look at our electricity Smart meter which had suddenly stopped transmitting half-hourly data to Octopus. This was achieved by removing the main (60A) fuse, waiting 15 minutes then switching the power back on again. It worked!

Anyway, he commented that the seal had been broken on the fuse, so someone had broken it and removed the fuse between the meter being fitted in 2020 and yesterday. He said normal electricians shouldn't do this, but they often do as it would more or less guarantee they would not get any work as it takes so long for a Dino engineer to do this.

I realised that I had solar panels and an EV charger fitted between the meter being fitted originally and yesterday, so it must have been one of those electricians who removed the fuse.

Anyway, he reset the seal and everything seems to be working normally. I seem to be managing with a 60A fuse despite having an EV charger and a heat-pump powered aircon unit and the usual kitchen appliances, including an induction hob.

I am sure that if I replaced the gas boiler with a heat pump I may have to upgrade the 60A fuse to something a bit bigger - but that is for the future.

FD

[Grumpsimus]

I realised that I had solar panels and an EV charger fitted between the meter being fitted originally and yesterday, so it must have been one of those electricians who removed the fuse.

Anyway, he reset the seal and everything seems to be working normally. I seem to be managing with a 60A fuse despite having an EV charger and a heat-pump powered aircon unit and the usual kitchen appliances, including an induction hob.

I am sure that if I replaced the gas boiler with a heat pump I may have to upgrade the 60A fuse to something a bit bigger - but that is for the future.

FD

FD

When EV chargers and solar panels are fitted. The electrician is supposed to notify the DNO. They also should do a calculation of the maximum power draw based on the amount of electrical equipment you have. In my case the answer came out at 68A, with an existing 60A main fuse, so a fuse upgrade was required. Unfortunately, the EV installer didn't contact the DNO, which I have now done.

You might be getting away with it now, but I suspect it is very tight. Remember, a normal domestic EV charger can use 32A continuously for several hours. You don't want to risk a main fuse failure! I would contact your DNO about upgrading the main fuse.

[pochisoldi]

I knew I'd find it again at some point...

This doc may be of interest - especially if you have a old house .
Its intended for PV and EV installers, but is still relevant where there's doubt about whether the main fuse rating is OK or not.
Lots of pics of cutouts - modern, not so modern, ancient and some "oh my gawd", fused neutral/"back in the day" types.

It also has general assumptions that can be made regarding fuse size for certain cutouts (the general rule seems to be "assume 60A" for post 1960s, but there are some examples where 30A needs to be assumed.)

https://www.energynetworks.org/assets/i ... 1.docx.pdf

The MOCOPA document link inside the doc doesnt work, Use this instead (the cruft after .pdf is required or the file wont download):
https://recportal.co.uk/documents/20121 ... nload=true
If the link doesnt work a google for "MOCOPA-guide-version-3.5.pdf" will see you right

PochiSoldi

[csearle]

This doc may be of interest - especially if you have a old house .

Thank you, yes that is excellent. C.

[raybarrow]

Hi,

I understand that one of the reasons DNOs do this normally for free, is to discourage unauthorised tampering, which can be dangerous and even fatal.

I worked for MEB/nPower, in the office, but had the chance to go out, as a 'don't touch anything' observer with electrical inspectors checking for illigal abstraction of electricity, so I had a better understanding of what I was sending them to.

That was bit of an eye opener as to what some people will do the avoid paying for electricity and how 'comparatively safe' our system is. Of course someone will always take a risk too far. I was also a First Aider and only too aware of the consequences of getting it wrong- not nice.

Ray.

[funduffer]

This doc may be of interest - especially if you have a old house .

Thank you, yes that is excellent. C.

Yes, thanks from me as well.

Looking at the photos, mine is one of the old black ones that 'assume 60A' then assume OK if the load has been calculated as such. Luckily mine actually has a sticker on it that says 60A, so I know where I stand.

I have also found a letter from my DNO saying the installation is OK from when I fitted solar and car charger, so that is a relief.

I am pretty sure I will have to uprate the fuse if/when I ever go to electric heating though!

FD