Wireless Alarm System for a Bungalow

[JMN2]

Any suggestions or recommendations?

Currently I have a Yale entry level with the yellow siren high on the wall. I have started to look into a system for a bungalow, obviously the yellow siren is not nevessarily out of reach on the bungalow wall. How is this usually handled?

Would need protection for a front door hallway and back door in the utility room which would also control anyone entering from the integrated garage.

I assume disarming the front would also disarm the back, being wireless?I am happy with this. I don't necessarily need all the bells and whistles of functionality. I have no pets.

Thanks.

[richlist]

My neighbours bungalow has dummy external boxes front and rear with working led warning lights and the real alarm box is hidden behind the facia/ soffit covers.

[bungeejumper]

Apart from placing the alarm unit near the apex of the roof (for maximum sound reach!), I don't think there's that much extra risk from placing an alarm box at a lower level. Anyone who tried to tamper with one would set it off immediately, and if it was connected to an external link (police, security company or maybe just your mobile phone), it would get picked up even if it didn't sound.

I think most systems can be zoned, so that some parts of the system are disabled. (We, for instance, used to disable the upstairs carpet sensors at night in case we set them off while going to the loo.) It was a bit of a faff with our old system - I expect modern ones make it easier.

Any special reason why you want wireless? I'd expect that a hard-wired system would be more secure. I don't know whether burglars can buy wireless jammers on the dark web, but nothing would surprise me.

BJ

[JMN2]

Thank you for the ideas. I guess the only reason I am thinking wireless at the moment is the added trouble and cost of wiring, also my current Yale wireless system works very well. But perhaps there is an easy solution for wiring.

[iain123]

I’ve installed a couple of systems in Bungalows. I’m not sure I’d go with the wireless system as, yes it would be quicker to install but you’ll forever be replacing battery’s. (expensive 9V ones from memory – how long do your existing ones last?) I assume with a wireless you still have to run power to the Master unit and possibly the bell(?) anyway . The main advantage with bungalow is you can usually get easy access underfloors to run cables. They are easy enough to install with and use 6 core cable, 2 cores for power, 2 for the alarm switch and 2 for tamper detection (but really tamper detection is optional unless your expecting 'professional' visitors). I’d be a bit wary about installing dummy boxes (and having real ones under eves) as these are usually identifiable as dummies and your still susceptible to a break in. Wired systems have rechargeable battery’s in the bell and Master units so will continue to work when disconnected or smashed off your wall. PIRs are very reliable these days and I’d use mainly these. You may want to add a magnetic switch to your main door to activate entry timer but I’d use PIRs over the rest of the house. I guess the other advantage with wired would be initial low purchase price?

I’m a bit out of touch these days – I’m sure there are systems that can sent you emails/text when the alarm rings. Of course, downside of DIY install is you don't get cheaper insurance although professionally installed systems have to be 'serviced'(?????) at extra cost, cost 1000quid+ to fit, which kinda negates any saving...

[richlist]

I was under the impression that external siren boxes can still be disabled by squirting expanding foam into them. So low level, easy accessible boxes are at risk.

I have a wireless system. Interior control plugged into mains with battery back up. External box and all other sensors battery operated. Batteries last 2 years

[bungeejumper]

But perhaps there is an easy solution for wiring.

In a bungalow, I think you just run everything through the roof space?

We live in a semi-remote rural location, and we use the whole gamut - Chubb door and window locks, a security floodlight halfway up the drive, and a deliberately visible CCTV camera which all the bad guys will be able to spot from the road without any difficulty. In fact all the real CCTV work is done by two unobtrusive 'bullet' cameras - but it's the great big one, looking like a can full of glass pebbles, that gets their professional attention.

But hey, that's another subject.

BJ

[JMN2]

The bungalow is in a cul-de-sac surrounded by 6-7 other bungalows, the back door is more vulnerable, the fence in the back of the garden faces the drive to the cul-de-sac and there are other properties along the drive.

Perhaps shards of glass and barbed wire as a first line of defense?

And also Yale stickers on the window.

[iain123]

Yes, I guess there is risk of expanding foam via vent holes or by even putting a box externally around the alarm box and filling that with expanding foam. I guess you have to look at your neighbours and judge who’s house on the street is the easiest to break into. If yours is going to be one of the more time consuming/risky/noisy to gain access, you’ll obviously be safer. Its selfish but I’m lucky as many of my neigbours have very simple unprotected access around the rear. Burglars can always get in and activated loud alarms can still be ignored. You could say that having a reachable bell box is a good thing as the burglar can see it’s a genuine system and he won’t know/be bothered to look if there is a 2nd box elsewhere.

Alternatively, plant a prickly bush under the bell box.

[JMN2]

The bungalow does not have the easiest access, the other side of the cul-de-sac has their gardens towards woodland and park area.

The front garden is quite small and close to the road, but in the back obviously motion detection lighting can be installed. Not that I'm overly worried about burglars in the area.

[GrandOiseau]

We have had a Yale wireless system for a number of years.

Whilst having the box higher up the wall helps against tampering and interference it's not beyond the wit of man to source a ladder to get up there hence why they are made to be tamper resistant. Ours have a very sensitive little spring inside them. If you squirted in foam or took offer the cover I think it would trigger the alarm.

You could put a grill over it as an extra layer.

We have sirens front and back which helps - we hope.

At the end of the day you have to realise that alarms only get you so far. Like a decent lock on your bike it is designed to make life difficult for thieves and to encourage them to move on to easier pickings. But if they are very determined or see your property as worth the effort they can get around most things.

[stewamax]

I have an Electronics Line Infinite Prime wireless system – now superseded – that sends me a text message when anything of interest happens (including sensor batteries running out). I keep the phone numbers of my Neighbourhood Watch neighbours on the phone and can ring them so they can check (with all due caution!) if a “break in” is a real one. The text messaging system works both ways and I can switch the central heating system on remotely as well as arming and disarming the alarm system using pre-prepared coded text messages

I second iain123's comments: I don’t use external motion detectors (I had previously found them more trouble than they are worth) - just PIRs in the rooms and sensors on doors and windows.
I have a frost sensor in the coldest part of my loft that kicks off a special alert and automatically turns my central heating on if it isn’t already. Highly recommended peace of mind for anyone who has an indirect heating system and/or lots of loft pipework!


My external alarm is too high up for all but the most dedicated burglar, and I don’t use ‘decoy’ alarm cases. As well as a tamper detector it has an internal metal shield over the bell electronics that would resist attack with a hammer.

I have never had a false alarm in ten years. The only downsides I have found are:
- the PIR batteries run out after 18 months or so (depends greatly on the activity in the room in question). The door and window sensors go on for ever.
- the PIR cases have fragile catches which snap after too many battery changes. I keep a set of (very cheap) spare cases and treat them as disposable

In an ideal world I would use a wired system, but the battery replacement regime is not too onerous.

[stevensfo]

Wow, this thread is like going back 20 years in time. We've had a wireless Yale system for 15 years and to be honest, I didn't know the ones with wire connection still existed, though some of my old accessories still in the garage did include wired door contacts.

The external siren has always been the worst part of the system due to its low volume, though I have to say that our house is at least 30 metres from our neighbour. But the internal control panel is very loud. The external siren has an anti tamper system that is quite sensitive, but even if somebody did squirt foam into it and somehow stop it functioning, it would only affect that one siren and not the rest of the system. You'd still get the awfully loud internal siren and the phone call!

It works extremely well. After 10 years we had to replace the control panel but that's it. The door contacts and PIR units use AA and AAA batteries but battery use is negligible, and they last years. Far better than our remote controls and kids' toys etc!

So at night, we have the internal siren and during the day, even if the external siren doesn't work, the bloody thing phones our mobile phones and lets us know.

Last time was in the middle of a meeting. Wife had left the bedroom window open!!

Steve

[stewamax]

The door contacts and PIR units use AA and AAA batteries but battery use is negligible

A good point: my PIR batteries are special 3.6V lithium thionyl chloride 2/3 AA batteries (1.1Ah) that are relatively expensive.
Decent AA batteries such as Duracell are much cheaper and I guess last much longer - albeit a bit larger. Buyers of wireless systems should check this!