Jump starter pack

[Nemo]

Hi there

My wife's little Kia's battery has gone flat a couple of times in the five years that we have owned it and each time I have replaced it. The car is only used for short journeys and its battery is 'one out of a moter bike' according to the Green Flag men who have been round to fix it. One has suggested that I buy a jump starter pack. There seem to be different packs for different engines and fuels and I'm finding this confusing. Additionally i might as well get one that will be suitable for my Audi - a Q5. Both cars are petrol ones.

Can anyone tell me what i should look for in the manuals to get something that would deal with both engines please? Presumably if I get one for the Audi it will do for the Kia?

Thanks

Nemo

[bungeejumper]

If you've got the Audi as well, can't you manage with a pair of jump leads?

Good ones, of course, with thick cables that won't overheat, and ideally 5 or 6 metres rather than the usual 3.5 metre ones. Much more flexibility when it comes to getting the 'donor car' up close.

Better still, give the Kia a good bit of proper exercise rom time to time. Maybe 15 minutes every couple of weeks. It'll love you for it.

BJ

[Nemo]

Hi BJ

If you've got the Audi as well, can't you manage with a pair of jump leads?

I think that the Green Flag man suggested I get a jump starter to keep in the car

Good ones, of course, with thick cables that won't overheat, and ideally 5 or 6 metres rather than the usual 3.5 metre ones. Much more flexibility when it comes to getting the 'donor car' up close.

This wouldn't do any harm adn I'll look into this, but I'd still like a a jump starter pack for the Kia.

Better still, give the Kia a good bit of proper exercise rom time to time. Maybe 15 minutes every couple of weeks. It'll love you for it.

We've just been away for a couple of weeks and the battery has died when we returned. We went away the same time last year and the battery was OK then, so it looks like there has been some deterioration. I always give both cars a good run around before we go away.

As far as I can see the battery is size type 054., but this doesn't mean much to me I'm afraid.

[sg31]

I'm also on the look out for a jump starter kit. My last one has died after not being charged for a long time.

My cars fine but the wifes run about has a tendency towards a flat battery as it's not used every day.

My previous starter kit was a massive thing with a proper battery inside, the ones I've just looked at are tiny by comparison and I hesitated because they don't look to have the power needed. Lithium battery technology apparently, not something I'm overly familiar with.

I've got a great set of jump leads, 6m long and well up to the job but I can't find them. We are renovating the house and nothing is where it should be. Most of it is in the garage which doesn't help. In addition I've only had this car for 3 months and have not yet found the battery. I think it's possibly under the passenger seat but if it is I've no idea how to access it. I've got a lot on with the renovation so finding the car battery is just a job that keeps getting put to the back of the list.

Any advice on starter kits would be appreciated.

3.0L diesel & 1.3L petrol

[Imbiber]

If you have cars and 1 starter pack it will be in the other car when you need it,

[Nemo]

Any advice on starter kits would be appreciated.

This artilce suggests that you should have one in each car - makes sense if you can afford the £150 or so:

https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessori ... packs-2018

I just wonder if different sized engines/fuel need different types of kit - just seen this at Halfords (mechnic suggested Halfords):

https://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... rt+charger

Two at £50 might be OK for me

[DrFfybes]

Any advice on starter kits would be appreciated.

This artilce suggests that you should have one in each car - makes sense if you can afford the £150 or so:

https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessori ... packs-2018

I just wonder if different sized engines/fuel need different types of kit - just seen this at Halfords (mechnic suggested Halfords):

https://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... rt+charger

Two at £50 might be OK for me

I do wonder why your batteries are going flat? Our cars can sit for a couple of weeks without moving, last night the BMW started fine after over a fortnight outside in the cold (13 year old) and most of our trips are 10-15 min, usually with the heated seat and windows switched on for part of it, and the lights at this time of year. The Toyota is on it's second or third battery - I think I replaced it about 10 years ago and the one we took out had the remnants of a Toyota badge under the strap. The car is 29 years old.

What type of battery are you using? Although it is a small one, there are different grades for the same size. You can get a cheap 36Ah one, or a premium 40Ah one which will help. Also if the car is being left stood, lock it with the key rather than the remote. This tends to disable some of the alarm sensors which can drain the battery.

If the ancillary power socket is permanent live (rather than switched with the ignition) then for 15 pounds or so (or twice that at Halfords!) you can get a solar trickle charger to put on the dashboard, sadly on my car the permanent live one is in the boot.

Have a look at Tayna.co.uk for a choice of batteries, though I suspect you will get more hits searching for a 055 pattern.

Paul

[Nemo]

Hi Dr Ffybes

It is this model Picanto -

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified ... 500&page=1

It was register in 2014 and currently have just over 9,000 miles on the clock! Apart from driving from the main dealer i don't think that it has been more than 10 miles from home since then. We live in a village and its main use is a round trip of 4/5 miles to a nearby small town. I'm no mechanic but The Green Flag men and our local garage all agree that this is the problem along with the 'motor bike battery' - the 054 one:

https://www.tayna.co.uk/Kia-Picanto-Car-Battery

I'm resigned to buting a new battery ever three years or so, but don't want to get caught out with a flat battery.

[UncleIan]

Better still, give the Kia a good bit of proper exercise rom time to time. Maybe 15 minutes every couple of weeks. It'll love you for it.

This. We have a 19 year old VW Lupo, though I confess I don't know how old the battery is. Drive it until it's warmed up, then drive it some more. If it's left for a couple of weeks the battery will go flat, but it usually gets driven once a week 10 miles each way somewhere, it's then usually fine the next time.

Your basic problem is starting the car takes a lot of juice, and the battery isn't being replenished enough by the engine during very short journeys.

[bungeejumper]

Your basic problem is starting the car takes a lot of juice, and the battery isn't being replenished enough by the engine during very short journeys.

Indeed. And batteries can also get lazy if they're not getting the regular charge cycle, and it can be quite hard to reinvigorate them. (Although I gather that garages do have ways of doing that.)

AIUI (and I may be out of date), the plates in an under-exercised battery develop a coating that debilitates them and slows down their efficiency. It's a bit like Alzheimers laying down a plaque on the brain. Your car keeps forgetting where you left its keys, and where the accelerator pedal used to be. Give it a reminder?

BJ

[kempiejon]

I might be lucky, I have a 2010 Kia Picanto, bought new from the dealer, same battery as when I drove it home. I have a multimeter and do test my battery occasionally. It does get a run most (sub 10 miles) days but I have left it for weeks in the past without a problem too. I expect that's the kiss of death for it now.
I check the numbers and a fully charged battery should measure at 12.6 volts or above. When the engine is running, this measurement should be 13.7 to 14.7 volts. My resting battery hasn't dropped below 12.6 in all those years but below 12volts and it's dead.

A relative who doesn't drive so often has a solar trickle charger but that's not much use in the winter with short days, low sun and cloudy - when the battery is generally at its least efficient too. They are on their third batter since 2010 and the AA man was most disparaging about the under powered small battery in their Honda Jazz.

[DrFfybes]

Hi Dr Ffybes

It is this model Picanto -

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified ... 500&page=1

It was register in 2014 and currently have just over 9,000 miles on the clock! Apart from driving from the main dealer i don't think that it has been more than 10 miles from home since then. We live in a village and its main use is a round trip of 4/5 miles to a nearby small town. I'm no mechanic but The Green Flag men and our local garage all agree that this is the problem along with the 'motor bike battery' - the 054 one:

https://www.tayna.co.uk/Kia-Picanto-Car-Battery

I'm resigned to buting a new battery ever three years or so, but don't want to get caught out with a flat battery.

A boost starter will get you out of the hole, but the battery will still be wrecked - flattening a battery kills it. All you will be saving is the 60 mins waiting for Green Flag to get to you.
Remember to top up the boost charger after use

Prevention in the first place is better than sticking plasters when it fails. This means either using the car more often and/or for longer, or keeping the battery charged up. You can either a use solar panel or a plug-in conditioner like a CTEK if you have access to power where you park (you connect a fly lead to the battery terminals and then just connect it up when you need).

Maximise the charge it does get - drive short journeys in a lower gear at higher revs to give the car more exercise. Try and reduce the load on the battery - if the car has stop/start then turn it off (it should disable with a low battery anyway), drive with the air on "fresh intake" rather than aircon and recirculate, etc. You also have a Q5, is there any reason you can't use the Kia once a week instead?

Also get the current drain checked - when parked it should draw about 30-50mA after it has shut down (which can take 20 mins). Sometimes cars can sit there scanning for bluetooth connections or a door solenoid sticks or the CD changer keeps searching for a missing disc, so the car doesn't go into sleep mode properly.

And one last really daft question - the battery is actually flat BEFORE you try and start it? I only ask as I know someone consistently flattened their battery as they used to press the accelerator when starting the car as they always had done, even though it isn't necessary with anything made in the last 20+ years where you should simply turn the key and wait.

Paul

[Nemo]

Hi Paul

Prevention in the first place is better than sticking plasters when it fails. This means either using the car more often and/or for longer, or keeping the battery charged up. You can either a use solar panel or a plug-in conditioner like a CTEK if you have access to power where you park (you connect a fly lead to the battery terminals and then just connect it up when you need).

I like this idea, and it has never occured to me. There are various CTEK chargers so do i need a specific one to cope with the Audi (which will presumably cover the KIa)

Maximise the charge it does get - drive short journeys in a lower gear at higher revs to give the car more exercise. Try and reduce the load on the battery - if the car has stop/start then turn it off (it should disable with a low battery anyway), drive with the air on "fresh intake" rather than aircon and recirculate, etc. You also have a Q5, is there any reason you can't use the Kia once a week instead?

This might sound a bit weird but the Kia is the high mileage car

And one last really daft question - the battery is actually flat BEFORE you try and start it? I only ask as I know someone consistently flattened their battery as they used to press the accelerator when starting the car as they always had done, even though it isn't necessary with anything made in the last 20+ years where you should simply turn the key and wait.

No, definitely flat from the first try.

I'll get something like a CTEK and put them both on charge, perhaps once a month. It will be no problem as I work from home and have off street parking with easy access to power points - perhaps I should have gone electric

Really helpful everyone, many thanks

[Breelander]

And one last really daft question - the battery is actually flat BEFORE you try and start it?...

No, definitely flat from the first try.

But only when you have left it unused for a while?

We've just been away for a couple of weeks and the battery has died when we returned...

Then it sounds more like there is a small drain on the battery even when the ignition is turned off. The obvious candidates are an interior light that doesn't go out when it should (perhaps in the boot or glove-box where it's not obvious). But one culprit that I've heard of in the past is the alarm and/or door lock systems which, by definition, are always powered up. If this is the case, a garage mechanic could measure the drain on the battery while the car is nominally 'turned off' and tell you how long it would take to drain the battery.

I have a classic 60's Mini that stays in the garage while there's salt on the roads. It has a battery that's 10 years old now. Whenever possible in the winter I take it out for a run on salt-free days, which occur about every four or five weeks. The battery starts it first time every time, but there is absolutely nothing electronic about that car that could drain the battery while the ignition is off.

[sg31]

I had a Honda that regularly lost charge due to a battery drain caused by some unknown part. The main dealer couldn't give me a price to fix it, they would have to test it and couldn't specify how long it might take or which part would need replacing. It could be the radio, just a sensor or the whole engine management unit.

I don't like open ended situations like that so I took it to an auto electrician who told me the solution was to disconnect the battery if the car was going to be left more that a few days. In the end he fitted a little item that automatically disconnected the battery if the charge level dropped below a certain level. It meant that the battery always had enough left in it to start the engine. Just open the bonnet, reset the unit by pressing a button and away you go. Not ideal but a reasonable work around.

The unit cost about £60 and a little bit for fitting.

[DrFfybes]

I had a Honda that regularly lost charge due to a battery drain caused by some unknown part. The main dealer couldn't give me a price to fix it, they would have to test it and couldn't specify how long it might take or which part would need replacing. It could be the radio, just a sensor or the whole engine management unit.

I don't like open ended situations like that so I took it to an auto electrician who told me the solution was to disconnect the battery if the car was going to be left more that a few days. In the end he fitted a little item that automatically disconnected the battery if the charge level dropped below a certain level. It meant that the battery always had enough left in it to start the engine. Just open the bonnet, reset the unit by pressing a button and away you go. Not ideal but a reasonable work around.

The unit cost about £60 and a little bit for fitting.

Pretty much the same with mine. Every time I get it tested it is fine, but twice last year it flattened the battery in 3 days (once over the weekend after Carrs had it in for 10 days and couldn't find a fault). Overnight it is fine.

The 'self disconnect' device sounds brilliant, just make sure you don't use it on a car with frameless doors where you need to drop the window 1/2 inch to open the door to get to the bonnet release (unless the battery is in the boot!).

Regarding a CTEK, I use a MXS 5.0 as it does cars and bikes and I connect with the eyelet leads for convenience and safety. £65 or so online.
The batteries I condition are in compartments in the boot and awkward to access, but the eyelet leads are quite short so I crimped/heat shrunk an extension rather than pay £12 for their extension lead. The mains lead is about 1.5m, as is the lead from the charger towards the battery, so you need to get power near the vehicle. I put a rag in the boot closer so it doesn't latch and trap the cable (the interior light goes off after 3 min).

Paul

[Nemo]

Hi Paul

Prevention in the first place is better than sticking plasters when it fails. This means either using the car more often and/or for longer, or keeping the battery charged up. You can either a use solar panel or a plug-in conditioner like a CTEK if you have access to power where you park (you connect a fly lead to the battery terminals and then just connect it up when you need).

Received a CTEK this afternoon and found it very easy to use. I tried it on my Q5 and was a bit shocked when the reading came back as 2! I left it on charge until it went dark and it had climbed back to 4.

Looks like I've solved the problem. Thanks for the recommendation.

[DrFfybes]

Received a CTEK this afternoon and found it very easy to use. I tried it on my Q5 and was a bit shocked when the reading came back as 2! I left it on charge until it went dark and it had climbed back to 4.

Looks like I've solved the problem. Thanks for the recommendation.

Glad to help.

That is pretty normal for the charger - the lights indicate "stages" in the charging process rather than actual charge level but are an indication. Unless the battery is fresh and fully charged it will usually start on stage 2, if only for a few seconds or minutes. My battery can take 6-8 hours to fully charge from 12.2V where it drops after a fortnight.

Read the manual regarding battery types and whether you just want it to condition or recover from a deep discharge (ie a flat battery).

Paul

[Nemo]

Hi Paul:

That is pretty normal for the charger - the lights indicate "stages" in the charging process rather than actual charge level but are an indication. Unless the battery is fresh and fully charged it will usually start on stage 2, if only for a few seconds or minutes. My battery can take 6-8 hours to fully charge from 12.2V where it drops after a fortnight.

This explains a lot - I tried the charger on the Kia's new battery and that initially showed 2 on the CTEK reading - it had me puzzled

I'll just keep them both topped up from now on